time driving a car in Cambodia. Phnom Penh to be precise... well, it wasnt a long drive or a road full of horrendous drivers and riders... it was at night. well, 3 of us went for dinner and the initial driver was too drunk to drive... so i offered. he had his poison... WINE. lol. so, there i was, behind the wheels for the first time. felt really weird... its left-hand drive here in Cambo... so, as expected... was very tempting to drive on the left side of the road. took off, made a few turns, stuck behind some traffic... so far so good. it wasnt so bad after all. well, i cant compare that night with the peak hours during a workign day of course. it was my first... and a point was brought up; i have committed in total 5 offences on my first time! wtf??!?! below is the list...
1. Driving Under the Influence (DUI)
2. Driving without a license
3. Driving while using the mobile phone
4. Beating a red light
5. Driving without a safety belt on
hmmm... i think i would have been in jail for life and fines up to millions of Riels if caught. dammit!
LOL!
Monday, December 14, 2009
Khmer Wedding Dinner
,i just attended my first Khmer wedding dinner last night at Toul Kork Center and i got drunk. how nice. well, it was one of my Manager's wedding and some of our staffs were there and thats when things can get pretty ugly, knowing how this Khmers drink alco. arrived with Susan around 7pm, horrendous traffic was the main reason we were late. there was another wedding at Mondial Center as well, hence the bad traffic.
arrived...
was greeted by Bona and brought in by him as well. some of the boys were there, Makara, Syed and Wendy. table loaded, food served. this is how Khmer wedding dinners work - food will only be served when the table is FULL (10 pax). if ur sitting alone, bad choice. go make friends and join their table. typical Khmer food was served as appetizers, then came the fish, the duck, the rice and thats all i can remember. i was tipsy by then.
there was a choice - Angkor Beer OR Red Label. those who know me would know the answer right on the get go. and for those who didnt know, i chose Red Label. that was my drink the whole night, with sips of Angkor that i have no idea how it got into my glass. one table would have one Red Label. i have no idea how my boys did it, but we had three. and all were gone!
the sad thing was i only lasted like 2 hours then i KOed. wtf... and i heard stories that i didnt remember of... skeptical... oh well... alcos will understand me... right?
arrived...
was greeted by Bona and brought in by him as well. some of the boys were there, Makara, Syed and Wendy. table loaded, food served. this is how Khmer wedding dinners work - food will only be served when the table is FULL (10 pax). if ur sitting alone, bad choice. go make friends and join their table. typical Khmer food was served as appetizers, then came the fish, the duck, the rice and thats all i can remember. i was tipsy by then.
there was a choice - Angkor Beer OR Red Label. those who know me would know the answer right on the get go. and for those who didnt know, i chose Red Label. that was my drink the whole night, with sips of Angkor that i have no idea how it got into my glass. one table would have one Red Label. i have no idea how my boys did it, but we had three. and all were gone!
the sad thing was i only lasted like 2 hours then i KOed. wtf... and i heard stories that i didnt remember of... skeptical... oh well... alcos will understand me... right?
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
of Malaysians and Courtesy
COURTEOUS is like a rude word in malaysia, nobody uses it, heck applies it. every morning, drivers will be cutting queues leading to traffic lights, commuters barging in the LRT not letting others out first, and other daily routines we malaysians selfishly do.
i was just in Singapore a week or so back, and i noticed their MRT doors had stickers of their favorite local character named Phua Chu Kang, with a speech bubble that says "Let others alight first". ok, those are not the exact words but its along that line. thats fantastic... Singaporeans do practise that... except that handful of "kiasu" commuters. NOW, in Malaysia, we have the LRT... they do as much as they can to educate the people about this matter; drawing yellow lines with arrows, indicating where you should stand and so forth, having small stickers that says "Let others alight first" (yes, its along this line) and also PA. Malaysians being Malaysians, we dont see things like that and we dont hear things like this. as the train arrives, doors open... BARGE!!!!!
havent any of us heard of this line...
point noted... credit to the handful of Malaysians that practices COURTESY... kudos to ya'll!
i was just in Singapore a week or so back, and i noticed their MRT doors had stickers of their favorite local character named Phua Chu Kang, with a speech bubble that says "Let others alight first". ok, those are not the exact words but its along that line. thats fantastic... Singaporeans do practise that... except that handful of "kiasu" commuters. NOW, in Malaysia, we have the LRT... they do as much as they can to educate the people about this matter; drawing yellow lines with arrows, indicating where you should stand and so forth, having small stickers that says "Let others alight first" (yes, its along this line) and also PA. Malaysians being Malaysians, we dont see things like that and we dont hear things like this. as the train arrives, doors open... BARGE!!!!!
havent any of us heard of this line...
GIVE WAY, TO GET WAY
bla bla bla
i was just reading Bayon Pearnik's downloaded version of their December 09 issue and this actually caught my attention. be prepared...
2007 - Chinese year of the Chicken
Bird Flu Pandemic devastates parts of Asia
2008 - Chinese year of the Horse
Equine Influenza decimates Australian racing
2009 - Chinese year of the Pig
Swine Flu Pandemic kills hundreds of pigs/humans around the globe.
It gets worse........
Next year......
such an open-ended question... what could?? wouldnt we all want/need to know... hopefully males wont be asked to strip down to their boxers/underwear at the airports.
6 months on... what have i possibly done/seen in Cambodia for this time-flying experience? there are numerous... should i list it down... i think i should. it will sound a little wimpy but heck, i dont care! here goes...
now, how can i welcome you to Cambodia?
Don't know if this is just a coincidence or if I'm getting paranoid,but …
2007 - Chinese year of the Chicken
Bird Flu Pandemic devastates parts of Asia
2008 - Chinese year of the Horse
Equine Influenza decimates Australian racing
2009 - Chinese year of the Pig
Swine Flu Pandemic kills hundreds of pigs/humans around the globe.
It gets worse........
Next year......
2010 - Chinese year of the Cock
what could possibly go wrong............?
WTF?!?!?
such an open-ended question... what could?? wouldnt we all want/need to know... hopefully males wont be asked to strip down to their boxers/underwear at the airports.
6 months on... what have i possibly done/seen in Cambodia for this time-flying experience? there are numerous... should i list it down... i think i should. it will sound a little wimpy but heck, i dont care! here goes...
1. Have never seen traffic thsi maddening in my life! vehicles come from literally all directions and there is no right or wrong... unless the authorities are eyeing you from atop a tree.
2. Have never been a pillion rider so often in my life (im in my late twenties)... as i recall, i only pillioned like a handful of times back home in Malaysia.
3. I OWNED a crash helmet! what?!?!? its essential, riding pillion with a cap and sunglasses just wont do it.
4. I have been spoilt by having me dad to cook dinner for me almost every night back home... but over here... its self-service. practically cooking every other night in Phnom Penh.
5. Having 50 Khmer staffs under me is kinda terrifying. just need to get into their good books.
6. Speaking Khmer English is hillarious, but that is how it works here. remove 'S' when possible. then i figured, Khmers do not pronounce the 'S' simply because Cambodia was a French colony; and the French do not pronounce the 'S' in English too. excusable. but what about Thailand? nobody ever conquered them but they still dont pronounce the 'S'. reason?
7. Never felt so lonely...
8. Fav past times for tuk-tuk and motodup riders are "kicking their own slippers as far as one can, leaving the other in shame". beating each other up is another one too... playfully of course; Khmer boxing style.
9. Am nto somebody crowned the "Knighthood" by the Queen of England... but they tend to think i am. everywhere is "SIR...", "tuk-tuk SIR", "moto, SIR"... priviledge i never got back home.
10. Seeing motorbike riders literally standing up as they ride on, having a full load of lime on the back of their motornikes. lorries too... once, this dude got out of lorry and went straight to the top of the lorry, lifting up the electrical lines above so it would not tangle with their goods. key phrase - MAX EVERYTHING OUT!
now, how can i welcome you to Cambodia?
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Sunday, November 1, 2009
My Say
my mum forwarded me this email about a British expat living in Malaysia and his take on drivers and driving in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. its hilarious but somehow true. as a Malaysian myself, i found this amusing. i actually believed that Malaysia is a MODERN country with 3rd World Mentality people... not all of course. and as written by Mr. Astley... you will know why.
For now, this is my version... the CAMBODIAN side of roads... (in blue)
WHAT ARE ROADS IN MALAYSIA (CAMBODIA) USED FOR?
David Astley, a British guy, now living in KL has his say...
Edmund Lou, a Malaysian, living in Phnom Penh has his say...
A guide for expatriate drivers in Malaysia (Cambodia)
Since arriving in Malaysia in 1997, I have tried on many occasions to buy a copy of the Malaysian road rules, but have come to the conclusion that no such publication exists (or if it does, it has been out of print for years). Therefore after carefully observing the driving habits of Malaysian drivers, I believe I have at last worked out the rules of the road in Malaysia . For the benefit of other expatriates living in Malaysia , and the 50% of local drivers who acquired their driving licences without taking a driving test, I am pleased to share my knowledge below:
I arrived in Phnom Penh about 6 months back and trust me, the traffic here is far worst than those i experienced in Kuala Lumpur. publications such as Road Rules are no where to be found but like what the locals and other expats would say... WATCH OUT! here we go...
Q: What is the most important rule of the road in Malaysia (Cambodia)?
A: The most important rule is that you must arrive at your destination ahead of the car in front of you. This is the sacrosanct rule of driving in Malaysia. All other rules are subservient to this rule.
A: Every man for himself. the honk is your best friend.
Q: What side of the road should you drive on in Malaysia (Cambodia)?
A: 99.7% of cars drive on the left hand side, 0.2% on the right hand side, and 0.1% drive in reverse (be on the look out for drivers reversing at high speed in the left hand lane of freeways, having just missed their exit). Therefore on the basis of 'majority rules', it is recommended that you drive on the left. However, be aware that only 90% of motorcyclists travel on the left hand side - the other 10% ride in the opposite direction or on the sidewalk. Fortunately, motorcyclists travelling in reverse are rarely seen.
A: since it is left hand drive, therefore we drive on the right side of the road. the normal roads in the city is just 2 lanes wide and an emergency lane, smaller in width compared to the normal lane. the rule is, vehicles with 4 wheels rule the left side of the road. slower vehicles with 4 wheels onto the middle. as for the emergency lane (right side), it is dedicated to vehicles with 2-3 wheels. at some cases, 2-3 wheeled vehicles can be found on the center lane. this is for the 10% conservative drivers. the remaining 90% of road users can be found in anywhere on the road, directions coming from the opposite, left to right, right to left, diagonal, snaking; however one can maneuver their vehicles.
Q: What are the white lines on the roads?
A: These are known as lane markers and were used by the British in the colonial days to help them drive straight. Today their purpose is mainly decorative, although a double white line is used to indicate a place that is popular to overtake!
A: in traffic law, it is suppose to divide the traffic flow. in Cambodian minds, it is considered as a work of art, a well drawn straight line.
Q: When can I use the emergency lane?
A: You can use the emergency lane for any emergency, e.g. you are late for work, you left the toaster plugged in at home, you are bursting to go to the toilet, you have a toothache or you have just dropped your Starbucks coffee in your lap. As it is an emergency, you may drive at twice the speed of the other cars on the road.
A: feel free. the only setback would be that you have to hustle space with the 2-3 wheel vehicles and also pedestrians. and you wont get to your destination quicker.
Q: Do traffic lights have the same meaning as in other countries?
A: Not quite. Green is the same - that means 'Go', but amber and red are different. Amber means 'Go like hell' and red means 'Stop if there is traffic coming in the other direction or if there is a policeman on the corner'. Otherwise red means the same as green. Note that for buses, red lights do not take effect until five seconds after the light has changed.
A: in the books, YES. in their minds, NO. here goes, Green = GO. Amber = GO. Red = GO, but stop if your chances of squeezing through vehicles crossing your path goes up in smoke. it is because of this, they have timers on most traffic lights in Phnom Penh. still, back to square one as i said.
Q: What does the sign 'Jalan Sehala' mean?
A: This means 'One Way Street' and indicates a street where the traffic is required to travel in one direction. The arrow on the sign indicates the preferred direction of the traffic flow, but is not compulsory. If the traffic is not flowing in the direction in which you wish to travel, then reversing in that direction is the best option.
A: like what Mr. Astley said in the first statement... BUT again, feel free to go on the opposite direction. make a U-e (U-turn) if you see a cop ahead of you.
Q: What does the sign 'Berhenti' mean?
A: This means 'Stop', and is used to indicate a junction where there is a possibility that you may have to stop if you cannot fool the cars on the road that you are entering into thinking that you are not going to stop.
A: STOP! ok, i exaggerated because there is no exclamation marks on the sign post. most of the time, this sign post is ignored because it is too high from eye view or it is made into a structure for people to display things. they are very good at using every inch of their land, really.
Q: What does the sign 'Beri Laluan' mean?
A: This means ' Give Way ', and is used to indicate a junction where the cars on the road that you are entering will give way to you provided you avoid all eye contact with them and you can fool them into thinking that you have not seen them.
A: no such sign... like i said, every man for himself.
Q: What does the sign 'Dilarang Masuk' mean?
A: This means 'No Entry'. However, when used on exit ramps in multi-storey car parks, it has an alternative meaning which is: 'Short cut to the next level up'.
A: pretty much the same as 'BERHENTI'.
Q: What does the sign 'Pandu Cermat' mean?
A: This means 'Drive Smartly', and is placed along highways to remind drivers that they should never leave more than one car length between them and the car in front, irrespective of what speed they are driving. This is to ensure that other cars cannot cut in front of you and thus prevent you from achieving the primary objective of driving in Malaysia , and that is to arrive ahead of the car in front of you. If you can see the rear number plate of the car in front of you, then you are not driving close enough.
A: sadly, this sign post cannot be found in Phnom Penh, but companies are making themselves heard by having sign posts that say, Drive Smart, Drive Safe. Smart is a telco company here in Cambodia, by the way. again, Drive Safe (Every Man For Himself) is the slogan used by most road users. honk your way through too!
Q: What is the speed limit in Malaysia (Cambodia)?
A: The concept of a speed limit is unknown in Malaysia.
A: this is a blardy good question! for real, i have not seen a single sign post that indicates the speed limit. fantastic!
Q: So what are the round signs on the highways with the numbers 60, 80 and 110?
A: This is the amount of the 'on-the-spot' fine (in ringgits - the local currency) that you have to pay to the police if you are stopped on that stretch of the highway. Note that for expatriates or locals driving Mercedes or BMWs, the on-the-spot fine is double the amount shown on the sign.
A: not applicable. but Mr. Astley is spot on about that in Malaysia.
Q: Where do you pay the 'on-the-spot' fine?
A: As the name suggests, you pay it 'on-the-spot' to the policeman who has stopped you. You will be asked to place your driving licence on the policeman's notebook that he will hand to you through the window of your car. You will note that there is a spot on the cover of the notebook. Neatly fold the amount of your fine into four, place the fine on the spot, and then cover it with your driving licence so that it cannot be seen. Pass it carefully to the policeman. Then, with a David Copperfield movement of his hands, he will make your money
disappear. It is not necessary to applaud.
A: David, it take years to perfect this movement... over here, just get out or down from your vehicle and approach the bloke sitting with a table. he is the cashier. talk over a cuppa and there might be discounts too.
Q: But isn't this a bribe?
A: Oh pleeease, go and wash your mouth out. What do you want? A traffic ticket? Yes, you can request one of those instead, but it will cost you twice the price, forms to fill out, cheques to write, envelopes to mail, and then three months later when you are advised that your fine was never received, more forms to fill out, a trip to the police station, a trip to the bank, a trip back to the police station, and maybe then you will wish you had paid 'on-the-spot'.
A: hah, now this is applicable over here. yes, BRIBE. bribery is basically a norm in Cambodia. the police here probably brings a few pieces of summon tickets cause it is normally not in use. on a motorcycle, it is compulsory for the Rider to wear a helmet, but not applicable to the Pillion riderS. yes, i emphasized on the plurality of RiderS. you can have 5 pillion riders on one motorcyle, not a problem... just make sure the Rider has his helmet on... and also side mirrors (2) and a license plate. failure to convene these necessity would result in a "ticket", normally at a cost of 2,000 - 5,000 riels (about USD1.50 and below). recently, the establishment of having drivers to put on the safety belt has increased the authority's pocket money, drastically.
Q: But what if I haven't broken any road rules?
A: It is not common practice in Malaysia to stop motorists for breaking road rules (because nobody is really sure what they are). The most common reasons for being stopped are:
(a) the policeman is hungry and would like you to buy him lunch;
(b) the policeman has run out of petrol and needs some money to get back to the station;
(c) you look like a generous person who would like to make a donation to the police welfare fund; or
(d) you are driving an expensive car which means you can afford to make a donation to the police welfare fund.
A: are you sure? if you just drove out of a flood that covered your whole car... that is an offense. vehicles that are TOO dirty in the authority's eyes shall be brought to justice!
Q: Does my car require a roadworthy certificate before I can drive it in Malaysia (Cambodia)?
A: No, roadworthy certificates are not required in Malaysia. However there are certain other statutory requirements that must be fulfilled before your car can be driven in Malaysia.
Firstly, you must ensure that your windscreen is at least 50% obscured with English football club decals, golf club membership stickers or condo parking permits. Secondly, you must place a tissue box (preferably in a white lace cover) on the back shelf of your car under the rear window . Thirdly, you must hang as many CDs or plastic ornaments from your rear vision mirror as it will support. Finally, you must place a Garfield doll with suction caps on one of your windows. Your car will then be ready to drive on Malaysian roads.
A: not that i am aware off. there are cars that looked like alien UFOs on the streets of Phnom Penh at night. those blue lights are just too glaring. Rule No. 1, do not turn on your lights in the DAY. if you see a car with the headlamps on during the day, avoid all troubles and be humble. vehicles with their lights on during broad daylight signifies dignitaries, rich men, army personnel, government servants and sometimes newbies. in Australia, lights are turn on during the day as it helps opposite cars to see you clearer... so mate, not in Cambodia yea. Rule No. 2, hands on the honk, forget the steering wheel.
Q: What does a single yellow line along the edge of a road mean?
A: This means parking is permitted.
A: decorations, another fine work of art by the painters. be aware of sign posts with a roman I with a diagonal line over it. this means no parking on this side of the road on ODD number days but you may park on the other side of the pavement / road. there is also another that states a roman II, go figure. someone told me once that this sign posts are used in France as well... skeptical...
Q: What does a double yellow line along the edge of a road mean?
A: This means double parking is permitted.
A: no such work of art found in Phnom Penh.
Q: What does a yellow box with a diagonal grid of yellow lines painted on the road at a junction mean?
A: Contrary to the understanding of many local drivers, this does not mean that diagonal parking is permitted. It indicates a junction that is grid-locked at peak hours.
A: its called the COOL zone. vehicles in this particular yellow box with diagonal grids are the coolest on the road. its so cool that everybody wants to be in it... no matter what the cost is.
Q: Can I use my mobile phone whilst driving in Malaysia (Cambodia)?
A: No problem at all, but it should be noted that if you wish to use the rear-vision mirror to put on your lipstick (women only please) or trim your eyebrows at the same time as you are using a mobile phone in the other hand, you should ensure that you keep an elbow free to steer the car. Alternatively, you may place a toddler on your lap and have the child steer the car whilst you are carrying out these other essential driving tasks.
A: go ahead. the authorities couldnt be bothered bout that... they are too busy picking out 2-wheelers. and just make sure your safety belt is on!
Q: Is it necessary to use indicator lights in Malaysia (Cambodia)?
A: These blinking orange lights are commonly used by newly arrived expatriate drivers to indicate they are about to change lanes. This provides a useful signal to local drivers to close up any gaps to prevent the expatriate driver from changing lanes. Therefore it is recommended that expatriate drivers adopt the local practice of avoiding all use of indicator lights. However, it is sometimes useful to turn on your left hand indicator if you want to merge right, because this confuses other drivers enabling you to take advantage of an unprotected gap in the traffic.
A: as you wish, my Lord. an indicator light turned on means the user is either making a tight-dash-and-run turn, a u-turn, a straight-diagonal turn, an opposite-from-what-it-indicates turn and when honks start to sound making you feel really guilty.
Q: Why do some local drivers turn on their left hand indicator and then turn right, or turn on their right hand indicator and then turn left?
A: This is one of the unsolved mysteries of driving in Malaysia.
A: we are still trying to get the users to use indicators...
Bonus Question:
Q: Is honking really necessary?
A: unless you wanna be a loser on the road, then NO.
Remember:
1. No lights on during the day
2. Honk to get smaller vehicles out of the way. these smaller ones belong on the middle or emergency lane.
3. Flash your light if you dont have enough time to get back into the lane whilst overtaking. this is to warn oncoming traffic.
4. When making a left turn, try to go on the opposite direction before entering the right flow of direction. right turns on the other hand requires no BERHENTI.
5. Get your motorcycle rider to wear his helmet, fix up the two side mirrors and ensure the license plate is intact. then, get your bunch of friends on the motorcycle before heading off to play volleyball.
6. In the case of an accident, the bigger one normally pays for the damage, ignoring whose fault it is. BUT, when it involves the vehicles with the headlamps on during the day, either you pay, or you walk off peacefully.
7. At traffic lights, observe the pedestrian timer, that is your F1 countdown before you zoom off.
8. 90% of the time, there will be an idiot, or two flying pass a Red light, just be aware of that.
9. Get on the opposite side of the road in any case of you needing to make a left turn, this will show other road users to LOOK AT ME, IM CROSSING.
10. the key to road users in Phnom Penh, EVERY MAN FOR HIMSELF.
Good Luck!
For now, this is my version... the CAMBODIAN side of roads... (in blue)
WHAT ARE ROADS IN MALAYSIA (CAMBODIA) USED FOR?
David Astley, a British guy, now living in KL has his say...
Edmund Lou, a Malaysian, living in Phnom Penh has his say...
A guide for expatriate drivers in Malaysia (Cambodia)
Since arriving in Malaysia in 1997, I have tried on many occasions to buy a copy of the Malaysian road rules, but have come to the conclusion that no such publication exists (or if it does, it has been out of print for years). Therefore after carefully observing the driving habits of Malaysian drivers, I believe I have at last worked out the rules of the road in Malaysia . For the benefit of other expatriates living in Malaysia , and the 50% of local drivers who acquired their driving licences without taking a driving test, I am pleased to share my knowledge below:
I arrived in Phnom Penh about 6 months back and trust me, the traffic here is far worst than those i experienced in Kuala Lumpur. publications such as Road Rules are no where to be found but like what the locals and other expats would say... WATCH OUT! here we go...
Q: What is the most important rule of the road in Malaysia (Cambodia)?
A: The most important rule is that you must arrive at your destination ahead of the car in front of you. This is the sacrosanct rule of driving in Malaysia. All other rules are subservient to this rule.
A: Every man for himself. the honk is your best friend.
Q: What side of the road should you drive on in Malaysia (Cambodia)?
A: 99.7% of cars drive on the left hand side, 0.2% on the right hand side, and 0.1% drive in reverse (be on the look out for drivers reversing at high speed in the left hand lane of freeways, having just missed their exit). Therefore on the basis of 'majority rules', it is recommended that you drive on the left. However, be aware that only 90% of motorcyclists travel on the left hand side - the other 10% ride in the opposite direction or on the sidewalk. Fortunately, motorcyclists travelling in reverse are rarely seen.
A: since it is left hand drive, therefore we drive on the right side of the road. the normal roads in the city is just 2 lanes wide and an emergency lane, smaller in width compared to the normal lane. the rule is, vehicles with 4 wheels rule the left side of the road. slower vehicles with 4 wheels onto the middle. as for the emergency lane (right side), it is dedicated to vehicles with 2-3 wheels. at some cases, 2-3 wheeled vehicles can be found on the center lane. this is for the 10% conservative drivers. the remaining 90% of road users can be found in anywhere on the road, directions coming from the opposite, left to right, right to left, diagonal, snaking; however one can maneuver their vehicles.
Q: What are the white lines on the roads?
A: These are known as lane markers and were used by the British in the colonial days to help them drive straight. Today their purpose is mainly decorative, although a double white line is used to indicate a place that is popular to overtake!
A: in traffic law, it is suppose to divide the traffic flow. in Cambodian minds, it is considered as a work of art, a well drawn straight line.
Q: When can I use the emergency lane?
A: You can use the emergency lane for any emergency, e.g. you are late for work, you left the toaster plugged in at home, you are bursting to go to the toilet, you have a toothache or you have just dropped your Starbucks coffee in your lap. As it is an emergency, you may drive at twice the speed of the other cars on the road.
A: feel free. the only setback would be that you have to hustle space with the 2-3 wheel vehicles and also pedestrians. and you wont get to your destination quicker.
Q: Do traffic lights have the same meaning as in other countries?
A: Not quite. Green is the same - that means 'Go', but amber and red are different. Amber means 'Go like hell' and red means 'Stop if there is traffic coming in the other direction or if there is a policeman on the corner'. Otherwise red means the same as green. Note that for buses, red lights do not take effect until five seconds after the light has changed.
A: in the books, YES. in their minds, NO. here goes, Green = GO. Amber = GO. Red = GO, but stop if your chances of squeezing through vehicles crossing your path goes up in smoke. it is because of this, they have timers on most traffic lights in Phnom Penh. still, back to square one as i said.
Q: What does the sign 'Jalan Sehala' mean?
A: This means 'One Way Street' and indicates a street where the traffic is required to travel in one direction. The arrow on the sign indicates the preferred direction of the traffic flow, but is not compulsory. If the traffic is not flowing in the direction in which you wish to travel, then reversing in that direction is the best option.
A: like what Mr. Astley said in the first statement... BUT again, feel free to go on the opposite direction. make a U-e (U-turn) if you see a cop ahead of you.
Q: What does the sign 'Berhenti' mean?
A: This means 'Stop', and is used to indicate a junction where there is a possibility that you may have to stop if you cannot fool the cars on the road that you are entering into thinking that you are not going to stop.
A: STOP! ok, i exaggerated because there is no exclamation marks on the sign post. most of the time, this sign post is ignored because it is too high from eye view or it is made into a structure for people to display things. they are very good at using every inch of their land, really.
Q: What does the sign 'Beri Laluan' mean?
A: This means ' Give Way ', and is used to indicate a junction where the cars on the road that you are entering will give way to you provided you avoid all eye contact with them and you can fool them into thinking that you have not seen them.
A: no such sign... like i said, every man for himself.
Q: What does the sign 'Dilarang Masuk' mean?
A: This means 'No Entry'. However, when used on exit ramps in multi-storey car parks, it has an alternative meaning which is: 'Short cut to the next level up'.
A: pretty much the same as 'BERHENTI'.
Q: What does the sign 'Pandu Cermat' mean?
A: This means 'Drive Smartly', and is placed along highways to remind drivers that they should never leave more than one car length between them and the car in front, irrespective of what speed they are driving. This is to ensure that other cars cannot cut in front of you and thus prevent you from achieving the primary objective of driving in Malaysia , and that is to arrive ahead of the car in front of you. If you can see the rear number plate of the car in front of you, then you are not driving close enough.
A: sadly, this sign post cannot be found in Phnom Penh, but companies are making themselves heard by having sign posts that say, Drive Smart, Drive Safe. Smart is a telco company here in Cambodia, by the way. again, Drive Safe (Every Man For Himself) is the slogan used by most road users. honk your way through too!
Q: What is the speed limit in Malaysia (Cambodia)?
A: The concept of a speed limit is unknown in Malaysia.
A: this is a blardy good question! for real, i have not seen a single sign post that indicates the speed limit. fantastic!
Q: So what are the round signs on the highways with the numbers 60, 80 and 110?
A: This is the amount of the 'on-the-spot' fine (in ringgits - the local currency) that you have to pay to the police if you are stopped on that stretch of the highway. Note that for expatriates or locals driving Mercedes or BMWs, the on-the-spot fine is double the amount shown on the sign.
A: not applicable. but Mr. Astley is spot on about that in Malaysia.
Q: Where do you pay the 'on-the-spot' fine?
A: As the name suggests, you pay it 'on-the-spot' to the policeman who has stopped you. You will be asked to place your driving licence on the policeman's notebook that he will hand to you through the window of your car. You will note that there is a spot on the cover of the notebook. Neatly fold the amount of your fine into four, place the fine on the spot, and then cover it with your driving licence so that it cannot be seen. Pass it carefully to the policeman. Then, with a David Copperfield movement of his hands, he will make your money
disappear. It is not necessary to applaud.
A: David, it take years to perfect this movement... over here, just get out or down from your vehicle and approach the bloke sitting with a table. he is the cashier. talk over a cuppa and there might be discounts too.
Q: But isn't this a bribe?
A: Oh pleeease, go and wash your mouth out. What do you want? A traffic ticket? Yes, you can request one of those instead, but it will cost you twice the price, forms to fill out, cheques to write, envelopes to mail, and then three months later when you are advised that your fine was never received, more forms to fill out, a trip to the police station, a trip to the bank, a trip back to the police station, and maybe then you will wish you had paid 'on-the-spot'.
A: hah, now this is applicable over here. yes, BRIBE. bribery is basically a norm in Cambodia. the police here probably brings a few pieces of summon tickets cause it is normally not in use. on a motorcycle, it is compulsory for the Rider to wear a helmet, but not applicable to the Pillion riderS. yes, i emphasized on the plurality of RiderS. you can have 5 pillion riders on one motorcyle, not a problem... just make sure the Rider has his helmet on... and also side mirrors (2) and a license plate. failure to convene these necessity would result in a "ticket", normally at a cost of 2,000 - 5,000 riels (about USD1.50 and below). recently, the establishment of having drivers to put on the safety belt has increased the authority's pocket money, drastically.
Q: But what if I haven't broken any road rules?
A: It is not common practice in Malaysia to stop motorists for breaking road rules (because nobody is really sure what they are). The most common reasons for being stopped are:
(a) the policeman is hungry and would like you to buy him lunch;
(b) the policeman has run out of petrol and needs some money to get back to the station;
(c) you look like a generous person who would like to make a donation to the police welfare fund; or
(d) you are driving an expensive car which means you can afford to make a donation to the police welfare fund.
A: are you sure? if you just drove out of a flood that covered your whole car... that is an offense. vehicles that are TOO dirty in the authority's eyes shall be brought to justice!
Q: Does my car require a roadworthy certificate before I can drive it in Malaysia (Cambodia)?
A: No, roadworthy certificates are not required in Malaysia. However there are certain other statutory requirements that must be fulfilled before your car can be driven in Malaysia.
Firstly, you must ensure that your windscreen is at least 50% obscured with English football club decals, golf club membership stickers or condo parking permits. Secondly, you must place a tissue box (preferably in a white lace cover) on the back shelf of your car under the rear window . Thirdly, you must hang as many CDs or plastic ornaments from your rear vision mirror as it will support. Finally, you must place a Garfield doll with suction caps on one of your windows. Your car will then be ready to drive on Malaysian roads.
A: not that i am aware off. there are cars that looked like alien UFOs on the streets of Phnom Penh at night. those blue lights are just too glaring. Rule No. 1, do not turn on your lights in the DAY. if you see a car with the headlamps on during the day, avoid all troubles and be humble. vehicles with their lights on during broad daylight signifies dignitaries, rich men, army personnel, government servants and sometimes newbies. in Australia, lights are turn on during the day as it helps opposite cars to see you clearer... so mate, not in Cambodia yea. Rule No. 2, hands on the honk, forget the steering wheel.
Q: What does a single yellow line along the edge of a road mean?
A: This means parking is permitted.
A: decorations, another fine work of art by the painters. be aware of sign posts with a roman I with a diagonal line over it. this means no parking on this side of the road on ODD number days but you may park on the other side of the pavement / road. there is also another that states a roman II, go figure. someone told me once that this sign posts are used in France as well... skeptical...
Q: What does a double yellow line along the edge of a road mean?
A: This means double parking is permitted.
A: no such work of art found in Phnom Penh.
Q: What does a yellow box with a diagonal grid of yellow lines painted on the road at a junction mean?
A: Contrary to the understanding of many local drivers, this does not mean that diagonal parking is permitted. It indicates a junction that is grid-locked at peak hours.
A: its called the COOL zone. vehicles in this particular yellow box with diagonal grids are the coolest on the road. its so cool that everybody wants to be in it... no matter what the cost is.
Q: Can I use my mobile phone whilst driving in Malaysia (Cambodia)?
A: No problem at all, but it should be noted that if you wish to use the rear-vision mirror to put on your lipstick (women only please) or trim your eyebrows at the same time as you are using a mobile phone in the other hand, you should ensure that you keep an elbow free to steer the car. Alternatively, you may place a toddler on your lap and have the child steer the car whilst you are carrying out these other essential driving tasks.
A: go ahead. the authorities couldnt be bothered bout that... they are too busy picking out 2-wheelers. and just make sure your safety belt is on!
Q: Is it necessary to use indicator lights in Malaysia (Cambodia)?
A: These blinking orange lights are commonly used by newly arrived expatriate drivers to indicate they are about to change lanes. This provides a useful signal to local drivers to close up any gaps to prevent the expatriate driver from changing lanes. Therefore it is recommended that expatriate drivers adopt the local practice of avoiding all use of indicator lights. However, it is sometimes useful to turn on your left hand indicator if you want to merge right, because this confuses other drivers enabling you to take advantage of an unprotected gap in the traffic.
A: as you wish, my Lord. an indicator light turned on means the user is either making a tight-dash-and-run turn, a u-turn, a straight-diagonal turn, an opposite-from-what-it-indicates turn and when honks start to sound making you feel really guilty.
Q: Why do some local drivers turn on their left hand indicator and then turn right, or turn on their right hand indicator and then turn left?
A: This is one of the unsolved mysteries of driving in Malaysia.
A: we are still trying to get the users to use indicators...
Bonus Question:
Q: Is honking really necessary?
A: unless you wanna be a loser on the road, then NO.
Remember:
1. No lights on during the day
2. Honk to get smaller vehicles out of the way. these smaller ones belong on the middle or emergency lane.
3. Flash your light if you dont have enough time to get back into the lane whilst overtaking. this is to warn oncoming traffic.
4. When making a left turn, try to go on the opposite direction before entering the right flow of direction. right turns on the other hand requires no BERHENTI.
5. Get your motorcycle rider to wear his helmet, fix up the two side mirrors and ensure the license plate is intact. then, get your bunch of friends on the motorcycle before heading off to play volleyball.
6. In the case of an accident, the bigger one normally pays for the damage, ignoring whose fault it is. BUT, when it involves the vehicles with the headlamps on during the day, either you pay, or you walk off peacefully.
7. At traffic lights, observe the pedestrian timer, that is your F1 countdown before you zoom off.
8. 90% of the time, there will be an idiot, or two flying pass a Red light, just be aware of that.
9. Get on the opposite side of the road in any case of you needing to make a left turn, this will show other road users to LOOK AT ME, IM CROSSING.
10. the key to road users in Phnom Penh, EVERY MAN FOR HIMSELF.
Good Luck!
Monday, October 12, 2009
in search of the Buzz
Vang Vieng
had a pretty sumptuous breakfast at Joma's, in the heart of Vientiane. as i sipped the fantastic coffee while waiting for my transport to pick me up... i was wondering what sort of excitement can Vang Vieng bring me, heck, leave alone bring these "farangs" to this little town 3 hours away from the City... Lonely Planet was a great help in giving me a view, or maybe a thought about this small town, but nevertheless, nothing can deceive what the eye sees.
the minivan arrived 20 minutes late, and it was full with farangs... and me being the only Asian white boy in it... it was just a minivan that picks up those who paid for the bus ride to the bus, of course. first impression of the bus when i first saw it was... "wow, not bad". at the front of the bus, is a huge sticker that reads "King of Bus". not bad for just below 5 dollars. bus was almost packed... thankfully, i was the second to get into the bus... i managed to find a seat, next to a little girl. skeptical... but hey, at least i got a seat. as the other farangs started to board the bus, they managed to find a few seats but not for an Irish couple. no comfy seats but plastic chairs, already in the bus, just in case of this situation. see, the buses here have no seat numbers... its a free for all. so, be early! as everybody started to settle down in the bus (not really for the Irish couple), the bus started to move... and had weird loud sounds coming from it as well. nevermind, its moving... it hit me that there were 3 extra Lao fellas in the bus as well. weird...
its going to be a 3 hour bus ride, or longer, depending on "situations"... yes that is scary. first stop... after almost an hour through the trip... TOILET BREAK... no no... not like R&Rs back in Malaysia, what you see is 5ft high grass and yes... please go ahead and take a leak. ladies, bring along an umbrella... and a friend of course. everybody was astounded... but being farangs... who cares! first sign of the bus with a problem... my view was that their brakes were heating up really fast, affecting the gears and clutch... solved in 30 minutes... long break... back on the road.
half an hour later... a long traffic jam. there was a queue.. a very long queue of cars, trucks and vans. we were stuck, not knowing what was going on at the far end. after reading stories of buses being robbed on this highway and so forth... everything i held was close to me. the traffic moved, and stopped, moved and stopped. until to a point that we can see a bridge... yes, we were crossing a bridge and seems that the actual bridge used for vehicles from the City actually collapsed! hell yea! and that was why we had to use the other bridge, and traffic was slow cause they would allow a certain number of cars to go through before the other direction comes. conclusion, it was a very narrow bridge.
after going through crazy Lao driving, whereby we nearly hit another car which was 2 inches from the bus and another incident where the opposite vehicle was 5 inches from the bus... the bus broke down again. 4 hours into the journey... the problem that i suspected came happening again. it was another wasted 30 minutes. finally, we entered the province of Vang Vieng... seeing the signboard brings a smile to my sorrow face. it was the country side, mountains towering us, river flowing gently and kids doing somersaults into the river... i was feeling the vibe already... UNTIL... we dragged to a stop. it was there and then that i even thought of hitchhiking to the town. but i kept myself from it and waited for almost an hour before the mechanics and the driver settled it. remember when i said there was 3 Lao fellas in the bus... and yes, i know why now... they are mechanics!!... call them the bust attendants too, as they do check tickets.
6 MF-ing Hours!!!
Lonely Planet said 4-5 hours!!! and what can the eye not deceive... it was true, Lao buses look VIP but they forgot to have a VIP engine in it! my suggestion is, get a minivan to Vang Vieng, it would cost maybe a dollar or two more, but the journey would be much faster... especially if you are on a tight schedule, like me...
SABAI-DEE VANG VIENG!!!
grabbed my backpack and headed straight out to the main road. see, VV is so small, there are 2 main roads... you are assumed lost if you see too many trees around you on a very very straight road... thats the highway.
with no reservations on hand, i walked towards the GuestHouse i wanted to stay in... Bansuan Riverview Bungalows. i saw the sign and started to walk faster as there was another lady in front of me walking the same direction. being kiasu, i overtook her and she halt me back. her first words were, "hi, your first time in Vang Vieng?"... as i screeched to a stop, smoke hollowing from my slippers, i said ÿes". then we were approached by a local, telling us that the bungalows inside is fully booked and his GH has one room left. as we stared at each other, the lady and me, we came to a conclusion that we could share the room for the first night. at the back of my head was that i could save half the price of the room... with a stranger! it was a quick decision as i was dead tired from the bus ride, frustrated and hungry. we stayed at Le Jardins de Organique and the room was 60,000 kip, about 7 dollars. view was pretty awesome, overlooking the mountains of VV. it has 1 double bed and 1 single bed as well. simple room, nothing much to offer but it was good enough.
my new friend in VV is Ing, a Thai lady. surprisingly, she was also in the bus, sitting just behind me. we quickly headed for a meal, at 5pm. she was traveling alone as her friend that she came with, flew back to Thailand because of an emergency. 2 solo travelers in a new place. we started exploring VV... a cowboy town that sells loads of VV t-shirts, singlets, everything you need when you are at the river. internet cafes are located everywhere and restaurants were galore, serving all sorts of food, Lao, Aussie, etc. the sun was setting and we found ourselves in this island, just a bridge across from the mainland of the town. this little island is a home to 3 bars and a GH. and the view of the sunset was simply out of this world. it was amazing... in Discovery Channel's words, This World Is... Awesome! i just couldnt help my fingers snapping on the shutter of my camera as i enjoyed the scenic view of the sunset, setting over the mountains. this little flick certainly brought smiles to our faces after the horrid bus ride we had. as VV started to get dark, it started to rain as well, and we were on our way out of the island and back into town. and we landed ourselves on a restaurant for dinner of course. if you were to read about VV from forums, reviews and books, you are sure to come across these phrase, "kicking back watching reruns of FRIENDS". and YES! its effing true! the tables and chairs are built into a bench like with pillows all around you. and of course, FRIENDS were playing. i also did noticed that now they are playing reruns of The Family Guy. improvising! a cold shower and the bed never felt so comfortable. and this, is my first day in Vang Vieng.
VV is so small that you are for sure to bump into the same people that were with you in the horrid bus ride. the Irish dude and his other half was still around, the Frenchies i met was still hanging out together and the German guy is still seeking for his adventure. got up early the next day and the morning view of the mountains are just amazing. mist hanging around the mountains, it was scenic! breakfast... done. we also decided to move to the actual GH i wanted to stay in, Bansuan Riverview Bungalows and here i am, in a new home. talking about being a nomad. check out the Tour agency and we confirmed our tour of Vang Vieng, a half day tour of the jungles and mountains; hiking, trekking, caving & kayaking. the tour costs me 120,000 kip (15 dollars more or less). up on the truck, it took us out of the town and through the village and villagers. we were going to the starting point of our tour. first task... kayaking for about 15 minutes. it was a good slow start. then we parked our kayaks at a villager's stop.
it was simply amazing, having to see the locals there trying to calm their guard dogs after we invaded their land. the sight of the jungles were just in my face. its now or never... we started hiking. Noi, our tour guide, was simply funny and can really entertain himself. hes one helluva joker. we hike and trek to a point where we stopped and Noi suggested we go to the waterfall first, then do the caving at the end. Yes Sir! the hike was tiring, adventurous and out of this world. to a point, i was actually kinda put off or simply scared as two other villagers started to appear from the jungles. Noi said that they just came back from their daily catchings. they hunt for crabs and frogs close to the waterfall. and yes, i could smell the salt water crabs as they walked pass us. the trekking continues... and now, i found myself at the peak, not the highest peak of course, but the peak of the hill we were trekking all this while. the waterfall can be seen and it was amazingly high! the waterfall starts from the peak of the mountain! it was incredible. the lush green covered mountains were just an eye candy! and there you go again... another 2 villagers came walking pass us. same catches... this is how Laos can be, so natural and localized. at some point, you might just feel like one of them... as we continue the journey closer to the waterfall... we went downwards from the hill we were on top and found ourselves on flat ground. it was a land filled with buffaloes and cows. the local villagers here rare these grass-munching, stomach-filling animals and they are for sale. a fully grown cow would cost around 1 million kip or more. now, we are lucky as there was no sign that says, "Trespassers would be shot!". as we strolled pass the dang filled grass (which explains the extreme lush greenery), we were in another jungle now. we have been hiking and trekking for almost an hour now. as we crossed rivers and streams, it started to rain. it was my first time doing this in the rain. drenched with rain and sweat, we continued our journey; just had to be a little more careful hiking as the paths are extremely slippery and muddy.
Noi told us that the management allowed him to take us on a Full Day Tour, instead of the Half Day Tour Ing and me decided on. now, this is worth the money! haha. the mini-waterfall is drawing close... the sounds of the waters crashing on the rocks on a nearby stream lifted my spirits to continue hiking. and there we were, climbing through the rocks in the river. with moss all over the rocks, it was tiring and difficult to climb upstream. after all the hard work, there it was, the mini waterfall we came for. it was awesome... the water was cold, cooling breeze, water crashing into the stream... it was well worth the adventure. all i can do was just stare at the falls, and started snapping my shutters again. Noi was swimming in the shallow waters but i found a rock just nice for me to relax... it was my personal little haven...
after enjoying being in my little haven, we started to climb downstream to where we entered from. we were on our way hiking back to the jungles and this time to the cave. going back the same way we came from, we found ourselves back at the dang-filled open land. from there, the cave that we were going is pretty near. and there it was, NamTham Cave. getting into the cave was difficult; steep wooden wood as our ladder and we are in it. as the lights went out, we were deep in the cave. the atmosphere was cold, the water was cold, i was freezing. at one point, we were walking through waters until my chin! thats about 5 feet deep of water. pushing myself through the waters whilst holding on to my flashlight, the only thing that i could feel on my feet were stones and rocks, slippery ones too. the cave was not that big, maybe about 500 meters and sunlight can be seen. and there it was, my real caving adventure; i was a virgin. out in the open, i know that the tour is about to end. and we were back on our feet trekking through the thick and long grass. as Noi paved the path... i was exhausted. and we are back at our kayaks. from here on... it would be kayaking for about 20 kilometers back to the town dock.
it was a tiring kayak ride, exciting at the same time. then, we found ourselves at the heart of VV's main attraction... the Swingers! bars and restaurants can be found at both sides of the river. this is also the main starting point for tubing, the farangs fave past time. Noi told us to docked at Smile Bar, on the left side of the river, downstream. we had lunch there as we watched the farangs swinging off themselves into the river. Smile Bar provides food, drinks, a volleyball court, mud-volleyball, mud-tog o'war pit and the ultimate swinging action. after watching a bunch of farangs play volleyball, tug o'war and swinging, they started to leave when one of their buddies dislocated his shoulder at the mud-volleyball court. after having much rest, Noi was ready for the swinging, and so am i! hah! in VV, this is much more fun than tubing, personally. and there i go... 1st attempt, ahhhhhhhhhhh.... wooooooooooooohhhhhhhh... weeeeeeee... thunderous SPLASH!!! as Noi threw a inflated inner tube for me to hold on as he pull me back to the dock, my face was plastered with a huge smile. it was FUNNN!!! and FANTASTIC!!! one might feel like being in a circus as those professionals swing around on the trapeze. 2nd attempt, i was swinging so high that i might actually get back up at the platform... and after going back and forth twice, i let my hand off the trapeze and left my heart at the handle. at my 3rd and final attempt, then only i did see the sign that states, "Swing 3 times then let go". i was doing it twice!! ok, this time, i followed the instruction and the splash wasnt that great. oh well, i guess i am hardcore! haha! seriously, swinging on the trapeze is a tiring job. after landing in the river, you still have to get your ass back at the dock. it was tiring and we were done. Noi did it twice, i did it thrice but Ing didnt do any... i guess it is understandable.
by the way, swinging is FREE! you just have to buy a drink at the bar and go on... its all yours. whilst tubing down the Nam Song River, the bar guys would normally shout out calling you to come to the bar and try our their swings... if acknowledged... they will throw a rope with a bottle attached at the tip at you. hold on to it and they will pull you in. simple as that. as we make our way back to the town on kayak, bars are aplenty, left and right of the river. some with loud music and some a little mellow. there was this bar with a HUGE slide... simple... just like Sunway Lagoon in Malaysia, go down the slide and find yourself maybe 10-15 feet in the air before you plunge into the river. now that is heart-stopping. too bad i was too tired to actually try it. half-way kayaking, Noi screamed at us, asking us to go ahead... he needed to take a leak! WTF... hahaha... this guy is funny, as he scrambled out of the kayak to get on land. as we approached the town and the sights and views got familiar, we knew that the Tour had finally come to an end. one word... MEMORABLE! a BIG thank you to VLT Tours and Noi. cheers!
again, Ing and me found ourselves at another restaurant but with the similar ambiance of the typical "lepak"culture in VV. headed to a bar on the little island, one called Rock Bar. it was quiet, surprisingly... and yea, just drinking Beerlao and chatting. called it a night and went back to the GH's garden facing the river to relax and absorb my last night in VV. river was pretty calm, and the mountains were asleep. the village across the river are in darkness, presumably sleeping. it was a peaceful night with stars twinkling above my head. one thing i told myself before i fall into deep sleep.... I Shall Return...!
my VIP bus (once bitten, twice shy?) was due to arrive at 1.30pm. after having breakfast, Ing and me decided to go for a walk, across a bridge that would cost 4000kip to get across and back. this bridge leads to the best caves and mountain views in VV. VV is simply scenic, shutterbugs are most encourage to come to this town. VV has fantastic eco-tourism sites and landscape artists and photographers would consider this as a haven for them. as i walked through mud pools and rocky roads, i get to experience the villager's life and surroundings. paddy fields, dogs humping, wooden bridges, shallow rivers, locals getting on with their errands, children cycling to school... its amazing. a life that i would not have experience back home but the life here is something that i would certainly respect.
checked out of the best GH in VV, in my own account, we headed to the town carrying memorable memories of VV with us. as i parted ways with Ing, she was a great friend; friendly and down to earth. who would have known that i had met a great friend in a foreign country. she was heading to Luang Prabhang, my initial town to visit and i am heading back to the capital. same concept as Vientiane, a minivan pick me up and dropped us at the bus station. as the bus arrived, i jaw dropped in shock... it was that very "King of Bus" i took from VTE to VV. hence, once bitten, twice shy. this time, i was prepared, i brought food and water enough for a 6 hour ride. and there i go... in the problem prone bus...
sorry, no pictures this time as my initial laptop has gone nutty and my pictures are all there. dont worry, will get the pictures up when i get that lappy fixed.
had a pretty sumptuous breakfast at Joma's, in the heart of Vientiane. as i sipped the fantastic coffee while waiting for my transport to pick me up... i was wondering what sort of excitement can Vang Vieng bring me, heck, leave alone bring these "farangs" to this little town 3 hours away from the City... Lonely Planet was a great help in giving me a view, or maybe a thought about this small town, but nevertheless, nothing can deceive what the eye sees.
its going to be a 3 hour bus ride, or longer, depending on "situations"... yes that is scary. first stop... after almost an hour through the trip... TOILET BREAK... no no... not like R&Rs back in Malaysia, what you see is 5ft high grass and yes... please go ahead and take a leak. ladies, bring along an umbrella... and a friend of course. everybody was astounded... but being farangs... who cares! first sign of the bus with a problem... my view was that their brakes were heating up really fast, affecting the gears and clutch... solved in 30 minutes... long break... back on the road.
half an hour later... a long traffic jam. there was a queue.. a very long queue of cars, trucks and vans. we were stuck, not knowing what was going on at the far end. after reading stories of buses being robbed on this highway and so forth... everything i held was close to me. the traffic moved, and stopped, moved and stopped. until to a point that we can see a bridge... yes, we were crossing a bridge and seems that the actual bridge used for vehicles from the City actually collapsed! hell yea! and that was why we had to use the other bridge, and traffic was slow cause they would allow a certain number of cars to go through before the other direction comes. conclusion, it was a very narrow bridge.
after going through crazy Lao driving, whereby we nearly hit another car which was 2 inches from the bus and another incident where the opposite vehicle was 5 inches from the bus... the bus broke down again. 4 hours into the journey... the problem that i suspected came happening again. it was another wasted 30 minutes. finally, we entered the province of Vang Vieng... seeing the signboard brings a smile to my sorrow face. it was the country side, mountains towering us, river flowing gently and kids doing somersaults into the river... i was feeling the vibe already... UNTIL... we dragged to a stop. it was there and then that i even thought of hitchhiking to the town. but i kept myself from it and waited for almost an hour before the mechanics and the driver settled it. remember when i said there was 3 Lao fellas in the bus... and yes, i know why now... they are mechanics!!... call them the bust attendants too, as they do check tickets.
6 MF-ing Hours!!!
Lonely Planet said 4-5 hours!!! and what can the eye not deceive... it was true, Lao buses look VIP but they forgot to have a VIP engine in it! my suggestion is, get a minivan to Vang Vieng, it would cost maybe a dollar or two more, but the journey would be much faster... especially if you are on a tight schedule, like me...
SABAI-DEE VANG VIENG!!!
grabbed my backpack and headed straight out to the main road. see, VV is so small, there are 2 main roads... you are assumed lost if you see too many trees around you on a very very straight road... thats the highway.
Good morning Vang Vieng!
with no reservations on hand, i walked towards the GuestHouse i wanted to stay in... Bansuan Riverview Bungalows. i saw the sign and started to walk faster as there was another lady in front of me walking the same direction. being kiasu, i overtook her and she halt me back. her first words were, "hi, your first time in Vang Vieng?"... as i screeched to a stop, smoke hollowing from my slippers, i said ÿes". then we were approached by a local, telling us that the bungalows inside is fully booked and his GH has one room left. as we stared at each other, the lady and me, we came to a conclusion that we could share the room for the first night. at the back of my head was that i could save half the price of the room... with a stranger! it was a quick decision as i was dead tired from the bus ride, frustrated and hungry. we stayed at Le Jardins de Organique and the room was 60,000 kip, about 7 dollars. view was pretty awesome, overlooking the mountains of VV. it has 1 double bed and 1 single bed as well. simple room, nothing much to offer but it was good enough.
my new friend in VV is Ing, a Thai lady. surprisingly, she was also in the bus, sitting just behind me. we quickly headed for a meal, at 5pm. she was traveling alone as her friend that she came with, flew back to Thailand because of an emergency. 2 solo travelers in a new place. we started exploring VV... a cowboy town that sells loads of VV t-shirts, singlets, everything you need when you are at the river. internet cafes are located everywhere and restaurants were galore, serving all sorts of food, Lao, Aussie, etc. the sun was setting and we found ourselves in this island, just a bridge across from the mainland of the town. this little island is a home to 3 bars and a GH. and the view of the sunset was simply out of this world. it was amazing... in Discovery Channel's words, This World Is... Awesome! i just couldnt help my fingers snapping on the shutter of my camera as i enjoyed the scenic view of the sunset, setting over the mountains. this little flick certainly brought smiles to our faces after the horrid bus ride we had. as VV started to get dark, it started to rain as well, and we were on our way out of the island and back into town. and we landed ourselves on a restaurant for dinner of course. if you were to read about VV from forums, reviews and books, you are sure to come across these phrase, "kicking back watching reruns of FRIENDS". and YES! its effing true! the tables and chairs are built into a bench like with pillows all around you. and of course, FRIENDS were playing. i also did noticed that now they are playing reruns of The Family Guy. improvising! a cold shower and the bed never felt so comfortable. and this, is my first day in Vang Vieng.
puts a smile on my face everytime
the FRIENDS lounge
VV is so small that you are for sure to bump into the same people that were with you in the horrid bus ride. the Irish dude and his other half was still around, the Frenchies i met was still hanging out together and the German guy is still seeking for his adventure. got up early the next day and the morning view of the mountains are just amazing. mist hanging around the mountains, it was scenic! breakfast... done. we also decided to move to the actual GH i wanted to stay in, Bansuan Riverview Bungalows and here i am, in a new home. talking about being a nomad. check out the Tour agency and we confirmed our tour of Vang Vieng, a half day tour of the jungles and mountains; hiking, trekking, caving & kayaking. the tour costs me 120,000 kip (15 dollars more or less). up on the truck, it took us out of the town and through the village and villagers. we were going to the starting point of our tour. first task... kayaking for about 15 minutes. it was a good slow start. then we parked our kayaks at a villager's stop.
awesome lodging!
view from the room
the room
it was simply amazing, having to see the locals there trying to calm their guard dogs after we invaded their land. the sight of the jungles were just in my face. its now or never... we started hiking. Noi, our tour guide, was simply funny and can really entertain himself. hes one helluva joker. we hike and trek to a point where we stopped and Noi suggested we go to the waterfall first, then do the caving at the end. Yes Sir! the hike was tiring, adventurous and out of this world. to a point, i was actually kinda put off or simply scared as two other villagers started to appear from the jungles. Noi said that they just came back from their daily catchings. they hunt for crabs and frogs close to the waterfall. and yes, i could smell the salt water crabs as they walked pass us. the trekking continues... and now, i found myself at the peak, not the highest peak of course, but the peak of the hill we were trekking all this while. the waterfall can be seen and it was amazingly high! the waterfall starts from the peak of the mountain! it was incredible. the lush green covered mountains were just an eye candy! and there you go again... another 2 villagers came walking pass us. same catches... this is how Laos can be, so natural and localized. at some point, you might just feel like one of them... as we continue the journey closer to the waterfall... we went downwards from the hill we were on top and found ourselves on flat ground. it was a land filled with buffaloes and cows. the local villagers here rare these grass-munching, stomach-filling animals and they are for sale. a fully grown cow would cost around 1 million kip or more. now, we are lucky as there was no sign that says, "Trespassers would be shot!". as we strolled pass the dang filled grass (which explains the extreme lush greenery), we were in another jungle now. we have been hiking and trekking for almost an hour now. as we crossed rivers and streams, it started to rain. it was my first time doing this in the rain. drenched with rain and sweat, we continued our journey; just had to be a little more careful hiking as the paths are extremely slippery and muddy.
Noi told us that the management allowed him to take us on a Full Day Tour, instead of the Half Day Tour Ing and me decided on. now, this is worth the money! haha. the mini-waterfall is drawing close... the sounds of the waters crashing on the rocks on a nearby stream lifted my spirits to continue hiking. and there we were, climbing through the rocks in the river. with moss all over the rocks, it was tiring and difficult to climb upstream. after all the hard work, there it was, the mini waterfall we came for. it was awesome... the water was cold, cooling breeze, water crashing into the stream... it was well worth the adventure. all i can do was just stare at the falls, and started snapping my shutters again. Noi was swimming in the shallow waters but i found a rock just nice for me to relax... it was my personal little haven...
the dang filled area
mountain peak number one
the mini waterfall we climbed towards
after enjoying being in my little haven, we started to climb downstream to where we entered from. we were on our way hiking back to the jungles and this time to the cave. going back the same way we came from, we found ourselves back at the dang-filled open land. from there, the cave that we were going is pretty near. and there it was, NamTham Cave. getting into the cave was difficult; steep wooden wood as our ladder and we are in it. as the lights went out, we were deep in the cave. the atmosphere was cold, the water was cold, i was freezing. at one point, we were walking through waters until my chin! thats about 5 feet deep of water. pushing myself through the waters whilst holding on to my flashlight, the only thing that i could feel on my feet were stones and rocks, slippery ones too. the cave was not that big, maybe about 500 meters and sunlight can be seen. and there it was, my real caving adventure; i was a virgin. out in the open, i know that the tour is about to end. and we were back on our feet trekking through the thick and long grass. as Noi paved the path... i was exhausted. and we are back at our kayaks. from here on... it would be kayaking for about 20 kilometers back to the town dock.
5 feet high water filled cave!
it was a tiring kayak ride, exciting at the same time. then, we found ourselves at the heart of VV's main attraction... the Swingers! bars and restaurants can be found at both sides of the river. this is also the main starting point for tubing, the farangs fave past time. Noi told us to docked at Smile Bar, on the left side of the river, downstream. we had lunch there as we watched the farangs swinging off themselves into the river. Smile Bar provides food, drinks, a volleyball court, mud-volleyball, mud-tog o'war pit and the ultimate swinging action. after watching a bunch of farangs play volleyball, tug o'war and swinging, they started to leave when one of their buddies dislocated his shoulder at the mud-volleyball court. after having much rest, Noi was ready for the swinging, and so am i! hah! in VV, this is much more fun than tubing, personally. and there i go... 1st attempt, ahhhhhhhhhhh.... wooooooooooooohhhhhhhh... weeeeeeee... thunderous SPLASH!!! as Noi threw a inflated inner tube for me to hold on as he pull me back to the dock, my face was plastered with a huge smile. it was FUNNN!!! and FANTASTIC!!! one might feel like being in a circus as those professionals swing around on the trapeze. 2nd attempt, i was swinging so high that i might actually get back up at the platform... and after going back and forth twice, i let my hand off the trapeze and left my heart at the handle. at my 3rd and final attempt, then only i did see the sign that states, "Swing 3 times then let go". i was doing it twice!! ok, this time, i followed the instruction and the splash wasnt that great. oh well, i guess i am hardcore! haha! seriously, swinging on the trapeze is a tiring job. after landing in the river, you still have to get your ass back at the dock. it was tiring and we were done. Noi did it twice, i did it thrice but Ing didnt do any... i guess it is understandable.
bracing myself...
holy-mother-of-godddd.....!!!
Smile Bar's Mud-Pit
by the way, swinging is FREE! you just have to buy a drink at the bar and go on... its all yours. whilst tubing down the Nam Song River, the bar guys would normally shout out calling you to come to the bar and try our their swings... if acknowledged... they will throw a rope with a bottle attached at the tip at you. hold on to it and they will pull you in. simple as that. as we make our way back to the town on kayak, bars are aplenty, left and right of the river. some with loud music and some a little mellow. there was this bar with a HUGE slide... simple... just like Sunway Lagoon in Malaysia, go down the slide and find yourself maybe 10-15 feet in the air before you plunge into the river. now that is heart-stopping. too bad i was too tired to actually try it. half-way kayaking, Noi screamed at us, asking us to go ahead... he needed to take a leak! WTF... hahaha... this guy is funny, as he scrambled out of the kayak to get on land. as we approached the town and the sights and views got familiar, we knew that the Tour had finally come to an end. one word... MEMORABLE! a BIG thank you to VLT Tours and Noi. cheers!
again, Ing and me found ourselves at another restaurant but with the similar ambiance of the typical "lepak"culture in VV. headed to a bar on the little island, one called Rock Bar. it was quiet, surprisingly... and yea, just drinking Beerlao and chatting. called it a night and went back to the GH's garden facing the river to relax and absorb my last night in VV. river was pretty calm, and the mountains were asleep. the village across the river are in darkness, presumably sleeping. it was a peaceful night with stars twinkling above my head. one thing i told myself before i fall into deep sleep.... I Shall Return...!
my VIP bus (once bitten, twice shy?) was due to arrive at 1.30pm. after having breakfast, Ing and me decided to go for a walk, across a bridge that would cost 4000kip to get across and back. this bridge leads to the best caves and mountain views in VV. VV is simply scenic, shutterbugs are most encourage to come to this town. VV has fantastic eco-tourism sites and landscape artists and photographers would consider this as a haven for them. as i walked through mud pools and rocky roads, i get to experience the villager's life and surroundings. paddy fields, dogs humping, wooden bridges, shallow rivers, locals getting on with their errands, children cycling to school... its amazing. a life that i would not have experience back home but the life here is something that i would certainly respect.
"please to pay"
the paddy field
cant get enough of the my lodging
strictly made of bamboo!
sunrise view
checked out of the best GH in VV, in my own account, we headed to the town carrying memorable memories of VV with us. as i parted ways with Ing, she was a great friend; friendly and down to earth. who would have known that i had met a great friend in a foreign country. she was heading to Luang Prabhang, my initial town to visit and i am heading back to the capital. same concept as Vientiane, a minivan pick me up and dropped us at the bus station. as the bus arrived, i jaw dropped in shock... it was that very "King of Bus" i took from VTE to VV. hence, once bitten, twice shy. this time, i was prepared, i brought food and water enough for a 6 hour ride. and there i go... in the problem prone bus...
sorry, no pictures this time as my initial laptop has gone nutty and my pictures are all there. dont worry, will get the pictures up when i get that lappy fixed.
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